At the very least, try the pose yourself. So how do we accomplish this with the lackluster arms provided in most Space Marine kits? With a knife of course.Īny time you’re posing a Space Marine (or any model for that matter), you want to be considering range of movement. I felt this gave a certain “attitude” to the model. What are your True Scale Marines doing? Are they aiming? Patroling? For the Apothecary, I wanted him to be holding his gun at the “alert”, which means with the muzzle pointing slightly downward, but ready to be brought up for firing. Once you’ve shaved down the plastic inserts, you’ll want to use either Green Stuff or Liquid Green Stuff to fill the gaps. Once this is done, you can file it smooth if necessary. Then, even more carefully, use the blade to trim it as close to the contour of the leg as possible. Step 2: Re-assembly.Ĭarefully, using hobby snips or a hobby blade, cut the excess down around the legs. If you aren’t going to be adding pouches and grenades, you will need to invest in some Green Stuff to model out their belt lines. Now, I add a lot of gear to my Space Marines because aesthetically I like them that way. Cut/file the outside edge smooth, then, using a rounded-tip hobby blade, scrape the inner side into a rounded shape. Adding another small square inside (or some putty) will allow more contact points for gluing the torso to the legs later. It gives a lot more options later.įor the torsos, I use 1.5mm thick plastic card, cutting it into strips to line the outside of the torso “ring”. If you’re keeping the pose, you might want to do a mid-thigh cut, but I’ve found I like the waist cut better. So I moved on to the next step, which was inserting plastic card spacers. In the case of the Apothecary, his legs came from the Death Company kit, and I was happy with the way they were standing. However, if you’re using specialized legs, or if you’re simply happy with the pose the legs are currently in, you can leave them alone. The difference in the poses you can achieve can be dramatic since the foot will no longer be anchored to the leg in a static position. You can see with the ones below, I’ve removed their feet. You’ll need to allow time for all the components to dry and set once you’ve glued them anyway, so doing them in groups of 4-5 may cut your downtime significantly. With these projects, I’ll typically work in batches. This meant cutting the feet free of the model. In the case of the section leader, I was using the old “squatting” legs from the old Tactical Squad kit, and wanted to do a fully new pose with him. In the case of the Apothecary, I liked the posture of his legs, so I was only going to be extending them, rather than a full rebuild. Well, the first thing that needs to be done is to decide what you want to do with the model. My two primary demonstration models will be this Apothecary here: In the end, you’ll have turned a 10 part model into a 40 part model. So, how exactly do you make True Scale Space Marines? Here’s a handy tutorial: You can see the Primaris Space Marine size comparison next to a regular model at the bottom of the post. As it is though, this tutorial will certainly get your Marines close enough to blend together on the tabletop as Primaris conversions. Make the Primaris Space Marines into regular Space Marines, and Make regular Space Marines Primaris size/bulk. The Primaris Space Marines are slightly taller and a little bulkier, so I’ll be revisiting this article soon to give people an idea how to do two things: June 2017: I’m sure this is your first question –
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